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#47711 Grammatically incorrect posts

Posted by TomSahz on 15 January 2014 - 07:04 AM

Yeah, it really doesn't matter, if people don't like incorrect grammar, they shouldn't be on the internet. (Sorry MassaHarri)

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#42381 **** YOU APPLE

Posted by TomSahz on 23 October 2013 - 07:57 AM

Im just surprised its free

Apple usually try and charge you for updates

But at least they have affordable hardware right? Oh.
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#47977 Case Display Thread

Posted by Unregistered49da27cd on 19 January 2014 - 09:49 PM


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#34631 Congratulations Josh...

Posted by Scrypt on 03 August 2013 - 12:30 AM

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#55083 Bad review.

Posted by Word Of Madness on 07 July 2014 - 05:03 PM

Honestly, this looks like needy customer syndrome.

The product number listed on their website matches the product they delivered to you. They finally gave in to your neediness and gave you the extras free of charge, then you refuse to remove a negative review.

Alphacity could have treated you better earlier on, but I'm fully on their side here. They have done absolutely nothing wrong. They were not arrogant. You were.
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#38230 Second GTX 670 4GB Card

Posted by TomSahz on 10 September 2013 - 07:14 PM

If you keep using rediculously large fonts just to be annoying then don't be suprised to find that you no longer have posting rights.
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#8992 Recommended Power Supplies

Posted by guitar_man_94 on 02 June 2011 - 08:15 PM

It is important to buy a good power supply because a bad one can die early, start a fire, reduce the lifetime of computer components or even kill components.

I have put power supplies commonly found in New Zealand into a tiered ranking system so it is easy to see whether a power supply is acceptable for your computer or not.

If a power supply is not on this list, check out some reviews from trustworthy sites to see how good it is. Also ask about it, either in this thread or in a new thread on the forums.
Recommended Review Sites

Who's Who In Power Supplies, 2013: Brands Vs. Manufacturers

PSU Review Database

Reference Level
Antec High Current Pro Platinum (Full Modular)
Antec High Current Pro 1200 (Part Modular)
Cooler Master V (Full Modular)
Corsair AX (Full Modular)
Corsair AXi (Full Modular)
EVGA SuperNOVA G2 (Full Modular)
Seasonic Platinum (Full Modular)
Seasonic X (Full Modular)

Strongly Recommended
Antec CP (Part Modular)
Antec High Current Gamer 750 & 900 (Non Modular)
Antec High Current Gamer M 750 & 850 (Part Modular)
Antec High Current Pro 750 & 850 (Part Modular)
Antec TruePower Classic (Non Modular)
Antec Truepower Quattro (Part Modular)
Antec Truepower New (Part Modular)
Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid (Full Modular)
Cooler Master VS (Part Modular)
Corsair CS (Part Modular)
Corsair HX (Part Modular)
Corsair TX M (Part Modular)
Corsair TX v2 (Non Modular)
Corsair RM (Full Modular)
Enermax MaxRevo (Full Modular)
Enermax/LEPA G (Part Modular)
Enermax Triathlor (Part Modular)
EVGA SuperNOVA 1500 (Full Modular)
FSP Aurum Pro (Part Modular)
FSP Aurum 92+ (Platinum) (Part Modular)
In-Win Glaciar (Part Modular)
OCZ ZX (Full Modular)
Seasonic G Series (Part Modular)
Seasonic M12D (Part Modular)
Seasonic S12D (Non Modular)
Silverstone Strider 1500 (Full Modular)
Silverstone Strider Gold (Full Modular)
Silverstone Strider Gold Evolution (Full Modular)
Silverstone Strider Plus greater than 500W (Full Modular)
Thermaltake Evo Blue 2.0 (Part Modular)
Thermaltake Toughpower M (Part Modular)
Thermaltake Toughpower XT (Part Modular)
Vantec Voltra (Part Modular)
Vantec Voltra+ (Full Modular)
Zalman HP Plus (Part Modular)

Able Performers
AcBel M8 (Part Modular)
AcBel M88 (Part Modular)
AcBel R88 (Non Modular)
AcBel R9 (Non Modular)
Antec High Current Gamer (Non Modular)
Antec High Current Gamer M (Part Modular)
Antec VP (Non Modular)
Antec Earthwatts (Non Modular)
Antec Earthwatts Green (Non Modular)
Antec Neo Eco (Non Modular)
Aywun Mega Power Pro (Non Modular)
Cooler Master G (Non Modular)
Cooler Master GX II (Non Modular)
Cooler Master GX 450W (Non Modular)
Cooler Master GX 80 Plus Bronze (Non Modular)
Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold (Part Modular)
Cooler Master Thunder (Non Modular)
Cooler Master Thunder M (Part Modular)
Corsair CXM (Part Modular)
Corsair CX (Non Modular)
Corsair GS (Non Modular)
Corsair VS (Non Modular)
Enermax NAXN80+ (Part Modular)
EVGA 500B (Non Modular)
EVGA SuperNOVA Bronze (Part Modular)
EVGA SuperNOVA Gold (Full Modular)
FSP Aurum (Non Modular)
FSP Aurum CM (Part Modular)
FSP Hexa (Non Modular)
FSP Raider (Non Modular)
Huntkey Jumper (Part Modular)
Huntkey X7 (Part Modular)
In Win Commnader III (Part Modular)
In Win Powerman CQ3 (Non Modular)
In Win Powerman EQ3 (Non Modular)
In Win GreenMe (Non Modular)
Lian Li Silent Force (Part Modular)
OCZ ModXStream Pro (Part Modular)
Raidmax RX AE (Part Modular) *Falsely advertised as 80 Plus Gold, efficiency is 80 Plus Certified/Bronze level*
Seasonic M12 II (Part Modular)
Seasonic S12 II (Non Modular)
Silverstone Nightjar (Non Modular)
Silverstone ST45SF (Non Modular)
Silverstone Strider Essential (Non Modular)
Silverstone Strider Plus 500 (Full Modular)
Thermaltake TR2 P (Non Modular)

Best Avoided May not meet ATX specifications under demanding conditions.
AcBel CE2 *Issues with above room temperature, suitable for builds where power supply not stressed* (Non Modular)
AcBel iPower *Issues with above room temperature, suitable for builds where power supply not stressed* (Non Modular)
Aywun Mega Power Eco (ones ending in E) *Quality unkown, use at your own risk* (Non Modular)
Aywun Mega Power Elite *Stay below 50% labelled wattage, may blow at higher loads* (Non Modular)
Cooler Master Elite Power *Ripple touching ATX spec at full load* (Non Modular)
Cooler Master Extreme Power Plus *Stay below 75% labelled wattage, poor voltage stability, high ripple, may blow at full load* (Non Modular)
Cooler Master Extreme 2 *Stay below 65% labelled wattage, poor voltage stability, high ripple, may blow at full load* (Non Modular)
Cooler Master GX (except 450W version) *Stay below 75% labelled wattage, high ripple, may blow at full load* (Non Modular)
Enermax Tomahawk 2 *Unreliable, known to die* (Non Modular)
Gigabyte Superb *Rated at peak power* (Non Modular)
Lian Li Maxima Force *Issues with above room temperature, suitable for builds where power supply not stressed* (Non Modular)
Thermaltake Litepower *Overrated and some are unreliable* *W0394 500W only has 180W 12V, only to be used on old school builds* (Non Modular)
Thermaltake TR2 *Very unreliable* (Non Modular)
Thermaltake TR2 RX *Very unreliable - Stay below 65% labelled wattage, high ripple, may blow at full load*(Non Modular)
Vantec ION2 Plus *Goes out of spec at full load* (Non Modular)

Garbage Replace ASAP if you have one, it may damage your computer.
Aywun Classic Series aka A1-1000 through to A1-5000
Huntkey Green Star
Thermaltake Purepower NP
Thermaltake Purepower RU

Extra Info

Cases with included power supplies

A large amount of power supplies that come with cases are dodgy and made on the cheap by low end power supply OEM's.

Some brands do have power supplies that are certainly decent enough for use in an HTPC. If the power supply gives enough wattage then it should be fine for some light gaming as well.

Cases with included power supplies that are respectable:

Cases with included power supplies that may be suitable for a budget system that does not stress the power supply:
Cooler Master

Cases with included power supplies that are best avoided:

Power supplies in OEM and prebuilt machines

The big OEM's such as Dell, HP, Lenovo and Acer use pretty solid power supplies in their prebuilt machines, even in the cheap ones. Generally the power supplies used have the shortest length of cable possible for the case that they ship with and not many cables for added expansion. This means that the power supplies shipped with these machines are often not suitable for use in another case.

Often the small computer stores down the road use power supplies that are low cost junk. If you are looking to get a new computer and are not prepared to build one yourself, you need to be careful and check what power supply is being used in the prebuilt machine.

Notes on rails

Allowed voltage variation: +/-5%, 11.40V - 12.60V
Best when within: +/-3%, 11.64V - 12.36V
Allowed ripple: <120mV
Best when: <80mV
Graphics card
Main motherboard chipsets
Hard drive motors
Optical drive motor
Most fans
Water cooling pumps
PCIe cards
Most PCI cards

Allowed voltage variation: +/-5%, 4.75V - 5.25V
Best when within: +/-3%, 4.85V - 5.15V
Allowed ripple: <50mV
Best when: <30mV
Some motherboard chipsets
Hard drive circuitry
Optical drive circuitry
Some fans
Some PCI cards
USB devices
Some hard drive motors

Allowed voltage variation: +/-5%, 3.14V - 3.46V
Best when within: +/-3%, 3.20V - 3.40V
Allowed ripple: <50mV
Best when: <30mV
Some motherboard chipsets
RAM modules
Graphics card onboard control circuitry
Some PCI cards
Some AGP cards
Some SATA drives

Allowed voltage variation: +/-5%, 4.75V - 5.25V
Best when within: +/-3%, 4.85V - 5.15V
Allowed ripple: <50mV
Best when: <30mV
Motherboard start-up circuitry
Charges CMOS battery

Not used anymore but is still part of the ATX standard and is required on all power supplies.

Not used anymore, not part of the ATX standard and is not allowed on modern power supplies.

So how much power do you really need?

An average gaming computer such as an i5 4570 and 7770 are fine on a solid 350W-400W PSU.

Most high end single gpu systems will need a good 500W-550W PSU. Most high end dual gpu systems will need a good 750W-850W PSU. Most tri and quad gpu systems will need a good 1000W-1500W PSU.

A high end system would be an i7 4770K @ 4.5GHz, GTX 780 with moderate air overclocks, 2 HDD, 1 SSD, 1 Disk Drive and 5 120mm fans.

Generally you want your idle power draw to fall <40% of the PSU's rated wattage, load power draw between <80% and your peak power draw to fall <90% of the PSU's rated wattage.

However there is an exception with computers that will be under heavy load ALL the time, such as folding rigs and extreme benchmarking. These should have extra headroom; these type of rigs should use ~60% of the PSU's rated wattage under the applications power consumption levels. But this does not apply to computers that will be idle most of the time, like most are.

To help here are two useful power supply calculators
http://psucalc.net/ <== recommended, more realistic and made by very trustworthy people (FiX and Phaedrus2129)

Notes on the 80 Plus Certification and Power supply OEM's

Understanding the 80 Plus Certification
Can We Trust The 80 Plus Certification?
Power Supplies With Fake 80 Plus Badges
80 Plus Certified Power Supplies and Manufacturers
How to Discover Your Power Supply's Real manufacturer

The Problem With A Single PSU Brand
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#53949 Techworld prices

Posted by Techworld1 on 06 June 2014 - 02:51 PM

One can't accuse me of being quick... ;) just noticed this thread, the guys are right, I am dealing with a supplier in the States from whom I am getting Seasonic and a few other brands no one else is doing (MSI, XFX, Zotac among others). I'm putting on my usual markup that I would from an NZ sourced company. I know alot of guys are shopping overseas and I'm just doing what I can to get in some stuff other places won't. The have a full warranty and are the real deal. Cheers :)
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#43023 Battlefield 4 Buddies!

Posted by Bealzebubbles on 01 November 2013 - 10:29 AM

I hate couriers. My copy turned up at 6:45am. I was obviously still in bed so I chased him down the street in my pyjamas. Caught up with him as he dropped something off at one of the neighbouring factories (I live in an industrial area. Shut up, it's nicer than people think) before he told me he put it behind a bucket next to my front door.
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#41329 Haswell upgrade!

Posted by LinuxUser on 12 October 2013 - 07:49 PM

My CPU and mobo have sold after one week, for $220 and $120 respectively. I have placed an order with CL for an i5-4670K and an Asus Z87-C. So in a few days, I might have some pics for you! And I'll also be selling my graphics cards, but later on after I've got the IGP working as I want it (it'll have far better performance than my pathetic GPU).

I must say that I'm probably going to keep upgrading every two years or so. After a couple of years, hardware is still worth enough to sell readily at a decent price. After four or so years, you wouldn't get anywhere near as much for it, and nor would it be as easy to sell. So you'll probably end out spending the same amount over four years, get an upgrade in the middle, and have an easier time selling your stuff.
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#33574 Are you ready for a miracle?

Posted by Unregistered675f1e9d on 11 July 2013 - 05:19 PM

http://i.imgur.com/WXMko.gif :ph34r:
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#54024 Newegg to start shipping to NZ

Posted by Techworld1 on 08 June 2014 - 12:03 PM

Please don't think that NZ etailers are creaming it over here. I know I'm not. I have the same markup across the board on all NZ supplied goods and its that low that I can make or lose money depending on what the freight cost is.
I don't think the suppliers are creaming it either. It is not cheap to get stuff sent over here. Either a small parcel or a container. Plus they have to warehouse the stuff and pay staff to dispatch and take orders etc etc. And take risks. Do they order a hundred whizz bang graphics cards only for them not to sell and they get stuck with them. There is alot of money tied up in stock, believe me. Goto any etail site, look at what they have 'in stock', try to add that that and then multiple it by 2 or more times per item. Big dollars. Without ordering in bulk, you don't get the discounts available.

There is more to prices often that end users see. Many assume computer retailers are ripping you off. I can guarantee this is one line of retailing you are not being ripped off. Other lines of retail may be ripping you off and creaming it, and maybe I'm just doing this all wrong but I don't believe we are. Some places may be but sites like Pricespy enable to you guys to see who that is. That ability doesn't really exist for many other retail lines.

Having said that, I think Newegg shipping here is a good thing. It opens up more brands and range which is what I think NZ is missing (not pricing).
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